Apparatus for felling linings on fur garments

ABSTRACT

A double lock-stitch blind-stitch sewing machine with a lower cloth feeder installed in such a manner that, upon feeding the cloth, it will move only parallel to the stitchplate and sufficiently downward in relation to the thickness of heavy material such as fur for felling linings on fur garments.

United States Paten Raul [ 51 Oct. 3, 1972 APPARATUS FOR FELLING LININGS0N FUR GARMENTS [72] lnventor: Winfried Rau, Turkenfeld, Germany [73]Assignee: J. Strobel & Soehne, Spezlal-Naehmaschlnen-Fabrik, Postfach,Germany [22] Filed: Sept. 1.8, 1970 [21] Appl. N0.: 73,531

[30] Foreign Application Priority Data Nov. 14, 1969 Germany ..P 19 57251.1 52 us. (:1. uni/T77 [51] Int. Cl. ..D05b 7/14 [58] Field of Search..1 12/ 176, 174, 203

[56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,172,812 2/1916 Lewis..112/177 5 1,740,901 12/ 1929 Mueller ..1 12/177 1,230.159 6/1917 Hayes..112/177 Primary Examiner-Patrick D. Lawson Attorney-Craig, Antonelli &Hill [57] ABSTRACT A double lock-stitch blind-stitch sewing machine witha lower cloth feeder installed in such a manner that, upon feeding thecloth, it will move only parallel to the stitchplate and sufficientlydownward in relation to the thickness of heavy material such as fur forfelling linings on fur garments.

5 Claims, 7 Drawing figures PATENTEDum I872 SHEET 2 UF 2 FIGS INYENTORWINFHED R'AU ATTORNEYS BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present inventionrelates to an apparatus for felling linings on fur garments, and moreparticularly to a device employing a double lock-stitch blind-stitchsewing machine having a lower cloth feeder which is installed so that,upon feeding the cloth, it will be in relation with the width of heavyfur material.

In the past, known lower feeders could only be effectively used whenpushing a relatively thin layer of cloth. If the layer became too thick,however, the feeding and clamping devices could not be used because thelower feeder would take an oblique position and the material would becaught, if at all, only by a few teeth. Up to the present, therefore,felling linings on fur garments has been executed manually since nosuitable machine was available. However, the manual felling of liningson fur garments is a time-consuming process, and attaching linings withthe use of a needle and by means of blindstitching is difficult and theapplication of such stitches is not very accurate.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is the aim of the present invention toovercome the problems and disadvantages encountered heretofore in theprior art.

It is a further aim of the present invention to facilitate the fellingof linings on fur garments by reducing work time and increasingaccuracy, thereby providin g a significant technical advance.

The foregoing problems and disadvantages have been solved in accordancewith the present invention by employing a double lock-stitchblind-stitch sewing machine with a lower cloth feeder installed in sucha manner that, upon feeding the cloth, it will move only parallel to thestitchplate and sufficiently downwardly in relation to the width of theheavy fur material. A clamping plate also moves parallel to thestitchplate and sufficiently downwardly upon feeding the cloth, and aconventional upper feed can be adjusted during the sewing operations.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING These and further aims, features andadvantages of the present invention will become more apparent from thefollowing description when taken:in conjunction with the accompanyingdrawing which shows, for purposes of illustration only, an embodiment ofthe present invention and wherein:

FIG. 1 is a perspective view showing the felling of linings on a doublelock-stitch blind-stitch sewing machine;

FIG. 2 is a partial plan view of a piece of fur with felled lining;

FIG. 3 is a front elevational view of the double lockstitch blind-stitchsewing machine with a partial crosssectional front view thereof;

FIGS. 4 and 5 are side elevational views of the conventional clothfeeding and clamping plate devices for sewing thin material and thickmaterial, especially fur, respectively;

FIG. 6 is a side elevational view of the cloth feeding and clampingdevices in accordance with the present invention shown for sewing thinmaterial; and

FIG. 7 is a side elevational view of the double lockstitch blind-stitchsewing machine employing the cloth feeding and clamping plate devices inaccordance with the present invention shown for manufacturing very heavyfur material.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING Referring now to the drawing and, inparticular, to FIG. 1, there is shown the head 1 of a double lockstitchblind-stitch sewing machine. On the head, a lever 2 is provided foradjusting the upper feeder of the machine. In addition, there isprovided a stitch plate 3, on the lower side of which thelining and furmaterial are pushed during the felling operation through a clampingplate 4 (shown in dotted lines). The clamping plate 4 is attached to thefront part of a lower arm 5 of the machine.

In FIGS. 1 and 2, the tumed-in facing 7 is shown on which lining 6 is tobe sewn on. The piece of fur is designated by the numeral 8, and thefacing 7 is sewn on prior to sewing in the lining by means of the seam 9and by employing the double lock-stitch blind-stitch sewing machine. Thedouble lock-stitch blind-stitch seam 10 which results after the lining 6is sewn on is shown by the dot-dash lines in FIG. 1. The seam is moreclearly shown in FIG. 2 where the sewn-in lining is drawn partiallytipped-up. It is also seen that, upon sewing on the. facing 7, theneedle penetrates to the point 9', while the needle penetration uponsewing in the lining 6 is at point 10.

As seen in FIG. 3, the rod connection for the backward and forwardmotions of the lower feeder is designated by numeral 11. Numeral l2designates the connection rod for raising and lowering the lower feeder.The corresponding eccentrics for producing the motion of the connectionrods are designated by the numerals 11' and 12'. A plate spring 13 isshown, the pressure of which can be adjusted by means of screw 14. Theplate spring 13 pushes upwardly the clamping plate 4.

Referring now to FIGS. 4 and 5, a conventional lower feeder 15 is shownpushing a thin layer of cloth 16. If, however, a layer of cloth is verythick, as is the case of fur material 16', as shown in FIG. 5, theconventional feeding and clamping devices cannot be used, since thelower feeder 15 takes an oblique or canted position and, upon being fed,the material either is not caught at all or only, at most, by a fewteeth.

The lower feeder 15' in accordance with the present invention is shownin FIG. 6. There, the lower feeder is fitted with a lower extension 15".The lower feeder 15' moves vertically in relation to the stitch plate 3along with the extension 15", the lever 17, levers'l8 and 19, and theangle lever 21 carried on pivot 20. Thus, the lower feeder 15' willfeedeven the heaviest fur material in a faultless manner as shown in FIG. 7wherein the clamping plate 4 in accordance with the present inventiononly moves vertically downwards.

While I have shown and described only one embodiment in accordance withthe present invention, it is to be clearly understood that the same issusceptible of numerous changes and modifications as will be apparent toone skilled in the art, and I, therefore, do not wish to be limited tothe details shown and described herein but intend to cover all suchchanges and modifications that are encompassed by the scope of thepresent invention.

I claim:

l. A device for felling linings on thick garments in a doublelock-stitch blind-stitch sewing machine, comprising a stitchplate forengaging and guiding an upper surface of a garment to be felled by themachine, a nonpivoting clamping plate arranged below said stitchplatefor intermittent engagement with a lower surface of said garment, andmovable lower feeder means arranged below said stitchplate, said lowerfeeder means being arranged in such a manner that a fur engaging portionthereof moves sufficiently downwardly and parallelly with respect tosaid stitchplate, whereby said arrangement adapts to various thicknessgarments fed between said stitchplate and said clamping plate 5 withoutjamming on relatively thick garments.

2. A device according to claim 1, wherein the fur engaging portion ofsaid lower feeder means comprises a substantially flat face with teethextending upwardly over the surface of said flat face.

1. A device for felling linings on thick garments in a doublelock-stitch blind-stitch sewing machine, comprising a stitchplate forengaging and guiding an upper surface of a garment to be felled by themachine, a nonpivoting clamping plate arranged below said stitchplatefor intermittent engagement with a lower surface of said garment, andmovable lower feeder means arranged below said stitchplate, said lowerfeeder means being arranged in such a manner that a fur engaging portionthereof moves sufficiently downwardly and parallelly with respect tosaid stitchplate, whereby said arrangement adapts to various thicknessgarments fed between said stitchplate and said clamping plate withoutjamming on relatively thick garments.
 2. A device according to claim 1,wherein the fur engaging portion of said lower fEeder means comprises asubstantially flat face with teeth extending upwardly over the surfaceof said flat face.
 3. A device according to claim 1, wherein the lowerfeeder means is maintained parallel with said stitchplate byinterconnected pivotal levers.
 4. Device for felling linings accordingto claim 1, wherein the garment is a fur garment.
 5. Device for fellinglinings according to claim 4, wherein upper feeder means are arranged tobe adjustable during sewing operations.